13  / 20
Gault&Millau

A buzzing new Italian with marina views

  • Head Chef
    Array
  • Cuisine
    Italian
  • Telephone
    +971 4 278 4800
  • Website
    Click here

Overlooking the new Dubai Harbour, L’Amo Bistro Del Mar is an Italian seafood restaurant that aims for Mediterranean seaside sophistication. The restaurant makes the most of its stellar views of Bluewaters, Dubai Marina and Palm Jumeirah with floor-to-ceiling windows During the day they bathe the restaurant in warming light, come sundown it’s a buzzing nightspot with the city lights in the distance.

The restaurant is pretty to look at, too – L’Amo adds to its theme by using a cream and blue palette, along with a generous number of Terrazo-style tiles to great effect.

The menu doesn’t overcomplicate things, instead it champions fresh carpaccios, tartares, and other Italian stalwart dishes, such as burrata served with salty Cantabrian anchovies.

As you might expect, pasta is a bit of a speciality here. L’Amo’s spaghetti Mancini is vastly improved by the addition of sea urchin, as is the vongole with its flourish of mullet roe. It’s smart and clever cooking.

Mains are mainly determined by which fish is present in the market-style display. They’re simply prepared, putting the produce front and centre. Throughout the menu, a bit more restraint with the olive oil wouldn’t go amiss.

L’Amo is on the right track very early in its maiden voyage. Some more refinement and there’s a bright future ahead.