21grams

The vision of Serbian restaurateur Stasha Toncev, 21grams is a simple but beautifully designed restaurant in Dubai’s Meyan Mall. Not really a building known for its culinary endeavours, but one that hosts this gem of a restaurant.

Indeed, the success of 21grams led to a fairly high-profile 2021 for Toncev, but there will be some who have not ventured here yet. We urge those people to pay the place a visit.

Serving ‘Balkan soul food’, in the words of Toncev, there’s a mix of well-known Mediterranean dishes on the menu, as well as some ingredients and plates that aren’t easily found outside of this place. Set on the mall’s top floor, there’s a small terrace and large windows with views towards the nearby beach and the towering Burj Al Arab from one side.

Thought has clearly gone into the interiors, too, with muted tones and interesting archways and benches creating a homely feel. The attention to detail goes down to the tableware, which adds to the overall experience.

The food here is presented with some care, though this is not a ‘tweezer and test tube’ kind of kitchen by any means. The strength lies in the flavours and love you can feel has gone into the menu.

Don’t leave without trying the bread (which is worth coming back for alone), use it to scrape up the ajvar – a red pepper relish. Order the cevapi – wagyu beef kebabs that come with excellent pickled red onion – and stuff them in the bread with some of the ajvar. You won’t regret getting your hands a little dirty. Grilled beef cheeks with grilled polenta is another highlight.

In fact, the compact menu is worth exploring in its entirety. 21grams is a real home-grown success story.